lindsey and me - rainy day activities at Miguel's
lindsey and me - rainy day activities at Miguel's

It’s been raining here on and off since I arrived to the Red River Gorge, and now will 100% down pouring from the gods today and most likely tomorrow, looks like no climbing til Friday at least, and maybe as late as SUNDAY!?!!? This is Lindsey and me, chilling at Miguel’s, enjoying his wireless internet.  Planning our rain rituals to wash away the water! bah!

And just as I determined my project!! Bah!  Chainsaw Massacre, 12a. Hard. Surprisingly quite doable, but there are a couple clipping holds that might be the end of the me. Considering I had to grab the chain to clip, it will be a challenge, but that’s why it’s called a project, eh?  I have only ever had 2 projects and they were both boulder problems, so I am totally psyched to have a rope project. One that I think I could actually do.  That is crazy to me. To have a 12 project. Skinny, little, weenie me. It is so awesome.  Here is a picture of the climb.

Chainsaw Massacre at the Mother Load, Red River Gorge
Chainsaw Massacre at the Mother Load, Red River Gorge

Amidst the rain, I was able to finally climb this classic route at the Left Flank wall, called To Defy the Laws of Tradition.  Funny b/c i guess the crux on this route is a reachy move, but since I have quite some extension, it was not cruxy for me at all, in fact, I did the move, then came down to switch my hands and did it again. No big. The hard part for me was the feet – apparently there were huge ones all around at the bottom, but I never found any of them. SO – the whole thing felt quite campusy – my bad. FUN climb!

super fun, classic roue, To Defy the Laws of Tradition
super fun, classic roue, To Defy the Laws of Tradition
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8 Comment

  1. Andy Scaife says: Reply

    If you are looking for a doable 12a for the tall boulderer, check out Immaculate Deception at The Sanctuary in Muir Valley. It has a V2 move off the ground, below your stick clipped first bolt, followed by 11a climbing. Since I also have “quite the extension”, I found the move a V1 at best, once I figured out the right beta. However. it will feel like a V3 move until you do. 🙂 It’s all in the feet, as most cruxes are…

  2. Dan says: Reply

    NICE allison! I didn’t know you had a blog….

  3. Dan says: Reply

    for me – the crux of Chainsaw is clipping that chain too – its not hard, just scary…i always am like….”I’m gonna fall off….!!! I’m gonna fall off!!!” and just suck it up and clip it…(or fall off…)

    1. Your post has moved the debate fowrrad. Thanks for sharing!

  4. mom says: Reply

    This is an amazing picture. I need an enlargement for the family photo wall.

  5. Lindsey says: Reply

    love the pics! keep em comin’!!!

  6. Shannon says: Reply

    Note: There are a lot of stickers on your laptop…

    1. Mateen says: Reply

      Theer’s nothing like the relief of finding what you’re looking for.

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